Tag: National parks

Walking on the moon. The Mother Road Episode 25.

It’s difficult to comprehend (for me anyway) that Holbrook AZ is at an elevation of 1548m (5079 ft) above sea level, then continuing west on route 66 the road climbs another 558m (1830ft) to Flagstaff at 2106m (6909ft) above sea level.

The upside of this much up is that it also keeps the temps a little more livable which, as we were heading into the July 4th weekend….seemed important. Prepping for July 4th weekend in the US was a bit stressful……anticipating fully booked campgrounds and much Independence Day revelry, I was relieved to score a site at the somewhat dubiously named…Black Barts . There had been a great deal of emailing and phone calling to many campgrounds in the area, so it was a bit of a concern….thankfully it turned out to be just fine….(and they gave me a nice shady spot…..!!)

As we drove into Flagstaff, we passed a sign for Walnut Canyon …..Hmmmm…Interesting…I looked it up as we drove and it turned out to be yet another National Monument.

Walnut Canyon National Monument

From the visitor center (where they strongly advise everyone to carry water…and to drink said water…!!) there is a staircase down to a loop trail that takes you around the cliff dwellings that are estimated to be around 1200 years old.

It’s a long way down….and all the time you are acutely aware that 1. it’s blistering hot…..and 2. it’s a loooong way back up again…..LOL…

The trail is one way only…..and not very wide, so you really would not want to be passing anyone.

But it is an incredible little window into a time past…..

…as well as being a geological marvel…..

On the walls of the caves you can still see the smoke streaks from the fires used to keep warm in winter.

It was sufficiently fascinating to distract from looking over to the right where the drop off down the canyon was……..daunting…..

The path back up was not as bad as anticipated…..it was pretty brutally hot down there tho…the increase in elevation putting us ever closer to the surface of the sun

Totally worth the visit……those ever so helpful rangers pointed us in the direction of Sunset Crater and the Wupatki Pueblo as well……so…..off we went….

Sunset Crater National Monument

Here we find ourselves in another lava field. Maybe its just me , but I think these places are mesmerizing. 1000 years later the landscape has barely changed.

As the road winds through the park, there are designated parking areas for some short, marked trails. Much of the park is restricted access in an attempt to reduce erosion of the landscape.

Just about the time that it’s occurring to you that this is like a moonscape……the confirmation appears in front of you. Yes !!… this is the area that was used for training astronauts for their first steps on the moon’s surface.

….then we found lots of these little guys running around. You can only spot them when they move….they blend so well with their background.

The bigger trail up to the crater was closed following wildfire damage….so the closest we could get was this boardwalk trail. Probably a good thing…it was warm for hiking…!!!

Extra pix

Standing on the Corner. The Mother Road episode 23.

We had a great time in Milan. A tiny, unassuming little town (with two local craft brewers..!!) and great access to some phenomenal natural experiences.

We were a little sad to leave…mostly because of the big shade tree over the trailer…!!…..but the road was calling, and the temperature in Arizona and California was rising. I kept looking ahead at the weather maps and was dreading what was coming. If 39 deg C is unbearably hot…..what could 49 be…!!!

The last New Mexico Route 66 stop was Gallup. Our plan was a stop at the visitor centre and use their parking lot for a lunch stop, which was partly foiled as it was closed for the holiday weekend (July 4 Independence Day).

We were still able to park and have a wander back up the main drag for some of the old motels and signs.

Gallup was a little different to many of these small towns, many of the classic motels were still in operation if a little run down……

….and the more famous, El Rancho, looked to be in fine shape…though we did not go in….

There were many small galleries, native craft makers and suppliers…. apparently, something else Gallup is famed for

Back on the road….It is very obvious when you cross into Arizona. There is a dramatic change in the landscape, a terrific grand-ness to the scenery bordering the highway……incredible red rock cliffs. (pictures with my phone do it no justice)

Our target destination today was Holbrook, Arizona…the closest town to the twin National Parks of the Petrified Forest and Painted Desert. Route 66 passes right through the middle of these two…….and very handily close to Winslow, so we unhooked the trailer at the Holbrook KOA and booted it over there……you just gotta go there…. 😁

…and now you are all singing it…..LOL……

It has to be one of the best set up and maintained ‘attractions’ we have seen so far…..that and you are singing that song in your head for days…before and after….but it was very cool.

Winslow is not a big town as there was nothing remarkable about it other than the tourist traffic stopping for the selfie on the corner……us included.

From Winslow we followed ol’ 66 back as far as we could…through Joseph City and found some marvelously photogenic dereliction and these very curious tipis everywhere.

Another oddity of this area is that a lot of the land is native reserve. They don’t observe daylight savings on reserves in AZ…so consequently the time keeps flipping back and forward as you drive down the road…..very confusing when you are not from there….

Holbrook itself has a little collection of old motels and this absolute classic still in operation…….the very amazing Wig Wam hotel.……. Every room/wigwam was decked out with classic cars……

..it was such an experience …we had to come back and see it lit up at night.

We were almost totally distracted from some of the other stuff on Holbrooks main drag…..

That was a lot for one day…….and more excitement to come with the National Parks to visit tomorrow…whoooeee…!!!!

Extra Pix

Over Lava Falls, Up Sandstone Bluffs. The Mother Road Episode 21.

After a long chat with one of the rangers about the bats, he also highly recommended the viewpoint at the sandstone bluffs. So, of course…we drove down there. Detailed maps of the park and any info you could want are freely provided at the visitors’ centers.

One of the short trails partway down the road is a viewpoint for a massive sandstone arch, carved out of the cliff by hundreds of years of wind.

It was a day for slow paced walking and many extra bottles of water, but a worthwhile stop.

The downside of stopping is always the lack of shade…..even for this short stop the truck interior (black of course….!!) would become stickily hot.

Onward to the bluffs….

Most of the elevation gain is the drive up there….which is fortunate considering the heat and lack of shade. At the top was the ranger we spoke to earlier, chatting and answering questions, we were most envious of his office. I’m not sure the pictures convey the scale, the height of the bluffs or the vastness of the valley…….spectacular…!!!

An impossilbly beautiful high viewpoint that lays out the whole valley floor in full panorama….and likely a point where anyone who lived here 3,000 years ago may well have watched that magma oozing out of the ground as it happened.

There are rock pools dotted around the top (we had watched the National Park video in the visitor centre so we knew to look for them..!!) There are populations of tadpoles and ghost shrimp…incredible place to find these tiny swimmers….

Yes…that is a shrimp in the middle of that picture……

We had a wander around in this magnificent landscape…..

There are always the reminders of the recent usage of this terrain.

A quick stop was made on the way back down b/c we spotted this little derelict building (what is a route 66 post without a little dereliction…LOL)

Time for another (small) hike although trying not to be too ambitious as general temp was high….but the black basalt rock makes it even hotter when you are out there.

The Lava Falls Walk is part of an ancient route the indigenous population used to cross the lava fields. For more modern hiking/walking this part is marked with small cairns, although still very easy to become disoriented in these surroundings. Only admiring the surroundings once stationary, gazing at the landscape while trekking across it, well that way lies disaster as you can see from the photos.

….and as the sign suggests…you really don’t want to fall…..this stuff will shred your hands, knees and boompsadaisy…….!!!

What a fascinating place to be……you can clearly see all of the bubbles, swirls and oozing stuff, now frozen in time.

Here’s me for scale again…..

We were stepping carefully over cracks in the earth…..and staring in wonder at the life clinging on in such a harsh place.

There were a couple of spots where we lost the line of cairns and had to backtrack a little…….and amazing how quickly one can become completely disoriented…..( I was also following Alltrails..!!)

The contrast between the sandstone bluffs and the lava fields below is mind-blowingly stark. Such an ancient, untouched landscape……another place where you can really get a sense of how it looked hundreds of years ago…….fabulous place…..

Extra Pix.

Fire and Ice. The Mother Road Episode 20

Having thoroughly enjoyed Albuquerque and now with two fully functioning AC units (phew) Scott spotted our next side trip …the Bandera Crater, Fire and Ice.

To reach a convenient jumping off point for Bandera, we picked a campground in Milan, New Mexico….The Bar S. Great little campground. As we progressed across the continent with increasing temperatures, I was learning to check google maps satellite view and choose campgrounds with shade trees…..!!!

So…to Milan, a tiny town just off the highway, with a 30 minute drive to Bandera. After I made the booking, I spotted another campground that also had an onsite Kraft brewery (darn it..!!)

Driving the highway towards Grants/Milan we were surprised to be driving through a lava field…well actually a magma field…it’s an astonishing landscape….it looks so recent and hard to imagine how long ago this actually occurred..

The drive down to the Bandera Crater takes you across El Malpais National Monument. It’s an extraordinary landscape…we had no idea that it existed until we were driving through it. A bit of investigation revealed that the first flow is about 10,000 years old and the most recent….3,000 years old. It is astonishing to see the wrinkles and bubbles of magma that looks like it might have happened last year……

Bandera promised a walk to the volcanic rim (it was a very warm for a walk on black lava rock…… 33 Celsius./91F….!!)… and a descent to a frozen cave.

Although not a challenging walk…… it is an extraordinary display of all the varied volcanic features from lave tubes to tree holes…..

A wide variety of plants were clinging to life in this very severe black basalt.

It’s a fairly short walk up to the crater itself with an easy wide trail of crushed basalt.

….and then down the other side to find the path to the caves…..

You have to get all the way to the steps before you see them…..

….and the descent…. not that far but you can really feel the temperature drop as you go down….

Another extraordinary sight/experience….amazing mother earth…..

The visitor centre is another great experience……quite….rustic….and not in the trendy, but very genuine, sense of the word…great little place…..

Next stop was the trailhead for El Calderone……a hike that we had scoped out and planned to follow the next day. The El Malpais area was used by the American military for munitions testing and training in the second world war, Consequently there are warnings about finding old ordnance in the area…. 😮

A trip to the visitor centre for this National Parks gave us another idea tho.

We found the information for a bat outflight which occurs from the larger volcanic caves in this area.( As ever in the US National Parks, the Rangers were super friendly and helpful.) How could we resist….. The planned Ranger led trip ended up being cancelled due to heavy rain that night (bats don’t fly when they are wet..!!) …but we were able to return the next night to the same spot.

We were joined by a group of Boy Scouts and their leaders who had spotted the activity during a trip they had made to hike the Grand Canyon…so they were weary and dusty but very excited. They were a great group to share this amazing experience with.

We waited for the moments just before dusk…and all of a sudden …the cloud of 3000-4000 bats appeared in the cave mouth, swirled a little and then flew east.

They swirled around us…you could hear them and feel the air movement as they whirled around us…..It was a surprisingly emotional experience…..incredible…the photos definitely don’t do justice to what it’s like….

Extra Pix