Hemingway was here. The Mother Road Episode 22.

Having had a quite fabulous time investigating the New Mexico landscape….. the official Route 66 attractions from this section of the road were beckoning. It was another backtracking trip……but one where the road (old highway 66) was actually in fairly good condition.

We drove all the way back to Casa Blanca, New Mexico for the Budville Trading Co. . It sounds very grand…but in reality it’s remote, desolate and, as with much of the 66 ‘attractions’….derelict.

Bud Rice and his wife opened the service station in 1928…Bud was the only towing service for many miles….and also became the Justice of the Peace. Apparently, he had a reputation for issuing hefty fines for minor infractions by unsuspecting travelers…….Ultimately, he was shot and killed in a robbery in 1968. Sounds like just the sort of colourful character and behavior you’d expect out here in the wild west.

Budville yielded a little collection of crumbling buildings and signs.

Next town on the return drive west was Villa de Cubero….another unexpected little gem of history.

This was a great little trading post/’tourist court’… (motel and convenience store..!!)…built in 1937 when the route was realigned and paved……still in operation. We scored some locally milled blue corn flour here…. 😁. But the history of this place was more impressive than that…

This place is also a little motel….

…..and reputed to be where Hemingway stayed while he wrote “The Old Man and the Sea”. If one wanted solitude to write this is the place, no busier now than it would have been then.

There were a few stops along the road for old signage often buried in trees……

…and some spectacular landscape vistas.

Among the attractions listed in the 66 route guide are the old pueblos in Acoma, but with a request/warning not to photograph them. It was our first encounter with some of these quite ancient dwellings. The construction is quite simple but still has that “grown out of the earth’ feel that is so much New Mexico.

We took a drive up to the Santa Maria Mission…(where we were allowed to photograph)…..the view from here down the valley was breathtaking…and impossible to photograph the scale.

Our journey brought us back down through Grants, where the entire town is a veritable neon sign/motel graveyard in its own right.

Scott had lots of fun leaping out of the truck and wandering round some of these (very sketchy) sites. Grants is a place which really exemplifies the short history of Route 66 from humble beginings, to hey day and in short order to what you see here.

It was quite sad to see a town that had quite obviously been a going concern in its day……

I think that this was one of Scotts favourite signs so far….LOL….

…and of course we just had to do the pic in the 66 gateway…… 😁

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Over Lava Falls, Up Sandstone Bluffs. The Mother Road Episode 21.

After a long chat with one of the rangers about the bats, he also highly recommended the viewpoint at the sandstone bluffs. So, of course…we drove down there. Detailed maps of the park and any info you could want are freely provided at the visitors’ centers.

One of the short trails partway down the road is a viewpoint for a massive sandstone arch, carved out of the cliff by hundreds of years of wind.

It was a day for slow paced walking and many extra bottles of water, but a worthwhile stop.

The downside of stopping is always the lack of shade…..even for this short stop the truck interior (black of course….!!) would become stickily hot.

Onward to the bluffs….

Most of the elevation gain is the drive up there….which is fortunate considering the heat and lack of shade. At the top was the ranger we spoke to earlier, chatting and answering questions, we were most envious of his office. I’m not sure the pictures convey the scale, the height of the bluffs or the vastness of the valley…….spectacular…!!!

An impossilbly beautiful high viewpoint that lays out the whole valley floor in full panorama….and likely a point where anyone who lived here 3,000 years ago may well have watched that magma oozing out of the ground as it happened.

There are rock pools dotted around the top (we had watched the National Park video in the visitor centre so we knew to look for them..!!) There are populations of tadpoles and ghost shrimp…incredible place to find these tiny swimmers….

Yes…that is a shrimp in the middle of that picture……

We had a wander around in this magnificent landscape…..

There are always the reminders of the recent usage of this terrain.

A quick stop was made on the way back down b/c we spotted this little derelict building (what is a route 66 post without a little dereliction…LOL)

Time for another (small) hike although trying not to be too ambitious as general temp was high….but the black basalt rock makes it even hotter when you are out there.

The Lava Falls Walk is part of an ancient route the indigenous population used to cross the lava fields. For more modern hiking/walking this part is marked with small cairns, although still very easy to become disoriented in these surroundings. Only admiring the surroundings once stationary, gazing at the landscape while trekking across it, well that way lies disaster as you can see from the photos.

….and as the sign suggests…you really don’t want to fall…..this stuff will shred your hands, knees and boompsadaisy…….!!!

What a fascinating place to be……you can clearly see all of the bubbles, swirls and oozing stuff, now frozen in time.

Here’s me for scale again…..

We were stepping carefully over cracks in the earth…..and staring in wonder at the life clinging on in such a harsh place.

There were a couple of spots where we lost the line of cairns and had to backtrack a little…….and amazing how quickly one can become completely disoriented…..( I was also following Alltrails..!!)

The contrast between the sandstone bluffs and the lava fields below is mind-blowingly stark. Such an ancient, untouched landscape……another place where you can really get a sense of how it looked hundreds of years ago…….fabulous place…..

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Spectating at Writing on Stone

With one of our host of visitors still with us (good friend Bev as part of her Solo at 70 tour) and looking around for an event to visit, we spotted a small rodeo event at Writing-on-Stone advertised on their Facebook page. The weather was making promises of being warm and sunny, so we took advantage and headed down there with cameras at the ready.

As we pulled down into the valley where the rodeo grounds are located, we were approached by a lady coming to inquire if we were lost (LOL). Turns out that it was a very small event, mostly a practice run for some of the smaller kids barrel racing, and some team ropers trying out technique and horses who had not run with live calves before.

We three were the only spectators…!!!

We gladly made some donations adding to the prize pot for the kids barrel racing and sat ourselves on the bleachers for some entertainment. …and we were duly entertained.

We were told that the kids riding today had not had great results at the official WOS rodeo as nerves got the better of them with a full crowd. So just the three of us were considerably less intimidating.

It was an informal but still highly competitive little gathering.

The riders ranged from seriously skilled (and fast)

To determined and learning the skill.

To little tiny people being introduced to something I am sure they will come to love……

After the morning session of barrel racing, the team ropers showed up. These guys were mostly adults, from young to….well….experienced….!!!

…and I have to say…this whole idea of team roping…….it looks completely impossible…….

…but every so often……there is a team that cracks it….

Amazing stuff……..

The photographers were both doing their bit, laying in the dirt mostly…taking the action shots. I stayed mostly in the bleachers watching the trainers work with riders on skills. (mostly fine communication with some incredibly talented horses…….subtle body hand and foot movements to ask these big four-legged critters to do the dance). I do love watching skill happen….. 😁

What an entirely unexpected day out, terrific people and animals and all so handily close to home.

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